Catalogue of Sorts

What I wear, when I wear it, and how it works on my bike

Sunday becomes Monday becomes Tuesday and is now Wednesday

Vogue7674On Sunday, I finished the muslin for both the Advance 8713 and the Vogue 7674. I cut an extra inch on the 7674, just in case, but it fit on the intended seamline. I was very happy about that. It was really satisfying to finish up both the muslins. Again the fit was generally just slightly better than OTR, but that’s satisfactory for me. I raise the waistline (sometime more than an inch) and occasionally square the shoulders. I’ve not moved on to anything more complicated.

For the Vogue 7674, I sewed the sleeve facing as intended on the left (sew the shoulder seams, then fold the facings under and stitch them down) and reverse order on the right (fold the facings under, before stitching the shoulder and side seams). Reverse order was simpler and seemed to work just fine.

mohair mohairI have this plaid wool mohair, which I intended for the Vogue 7674, but I have two concerns. One, it’s mohair, so I would think that “fuzzy side out” was right, but all the pictures on Mood (and the sticker on the swatch) indicate that the other side is correct. Two, I don’t know about the drape. The pattern is intended for “crisp” fabrics and lists “lightweight wool” as an option. I think this might be heavier than they intend, especially as Mood suggests it be used for coats or cardigans. So I have a bunch of swatches for alternatives: a beautiful red wool gauze, a couple sage-y, olive-y grey-green cotton sateens and one navy blue one; a light blue dupioni, and a polyester crepe in the same bright blue (but synthetic!).

I am very excited about this dress, in the end; it’s simple but with a nice shape. I have an obi belt, but I’ll need to get the ring supplies for a self-fabric belt.

The Advance 8713 is more complicated, not just with all the fancy darts–it also has an underarm gusset. I’m making it from the heavy, lovely fuchsia ponte, so perhaps it would not be necessary to put the gussets in, but I’m not sure. I did not put the gussets in the muslin, so I shall have to practice before I make up the final dress. Gussets are, I understand, a lovely way to bring range of motion to set-in sleeves, but my last attempt was not successful.

The sleeves are not as long as I’d like for under the dashing tweed vest, but I’m not sure how to extend them without needing more fabric. They’re cut in one with the bodice which limits how much you can get out of the fabric width. I lengthened the sleeves on the Claire McCardell which also has a cut in one with the bodice sleeve. (I’d like to make that one again, with a less voluminous shorter skirt and getting the dropped waist more in line with the fit on the mannequin)

Rode to work twice this week, today in the pouring rain (the ride home, thankfully, not the ride in), which soaked through my Outlier pants (which I was wearing with my green cashmere crewneck) but not my ski jacket.  On Tuesday, I rode the bus (I wore the Eileen Fisher washable crepe dress with the Gap lounge jacket and my new stars scarf–by the way, those are TINY TINY models, I can’t make a dress out of my scarf) because my schedule was higgedly-piggedly. Monday, the other day I rode, was windy and cold with light snow on the ride home (I wore the Eileen Fisher grey wool skirt and the Uniqlo olive merino crewneck).

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