Catalogue of Sorts

What I wear, when I wear it, and how it works on my bike

Weekend in Tweed Practice

I re-muslin’d the jacket in the right size and the fit is pretty good. The pockets are okay–the in-seam placement is less than ideal and they’re not very deep. I will probably cut a larger pocket, but leave them in the seam.

The dress was, as suspected, even worse in the wrong size than the jacket. It was just a dumb mistake on my part–it’s not like I was being blind about my measurements; I actually cut the completely wrong bust size. I have no idea.

Lining fabric

Lining fabric

Next up is seeing if my plan for lining works. The plan is to use the lining rather than facing for the front opening and neckline–possibly the armholes. too. Then bring the hem up to finish the inside. It should work, but I’m a bit nervous, considering how slippery the habotai is.

In other “how did that happen” news of the project, I ended up with twice as much as I need of an alternate color knit for a coordinating dress. Now that I’ve got enough wine-colored jersey for three dresses or two dresses and some separates (at least), I’m re-thinking things.

I’m afraid the expensive jersey is too nice for the coordinating dress that comes with the pattern and I’m concerned about cutting a pattern designed for wovens for a modern knit. But because most of my patterns are vintage, I don’t have a lot of patterns designed for 20% stretch–even the vintage patterns which loudly proclaim “Stretch knits ONLY” include a zipper because they don’t contemplate as much stretch as modern fabrics have.

mccall3017-1971I might use the less-nice knit for the coordinating dress and for this 70’s pattern. I have no stretch knit for muslins, but the cotton should give me a general idea.

The question of how to use the nice jersey remains. I could break out one of the fancy modern patterns, such as Vogue 8866 or the DKNY 2019. Both are designed for knits and among the few patterns with sleeves in the cupboard.

This vintage Butterick is a possibility too.1960Butterick3211 I like the shape a bit more than the coordinating dress and it seems a more classic silhouette than the 70’s McCall’s pattern.

Of course, this is the fun part–where it all works out perfectly and fits nicely and I don’t make dumb mistakes! Let’s see how long it takes to finish both tweed projects.




This entry was posted on December 4, 2016 by in Sewing and tagged .




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