Catalogue of Sorts

What I wear, when I wear it, and how it works on my bike

Monday, Not Working

I had the day off and had a leisurely morning, before taking my houseguest to the airport. It turned chill, so I wore the Icebreaker wool pants with the Ureshii Leia hoodie.

Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns, #1317.

Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns, #1317.

I have bought this periwinkle blue cotton twill which I think I will use to make one of the Ralph Rucci’s. 1317 has the lowest difficulty rating, but 1404 is the most appealing to me right now. 1381 is wholly aspirational but lovely.

I’ve seen 1317 on a number of blogs in a variety of fabrics (the envelope suggests either suede or lightweight doubleknit) and I think this twill has enough heft (like the suede) for the pattern. It’s very slightly stretchy, too, which might be a bonus.

Of course, there is a Colette Dahlia sew-along happening and I have a nice rust-colored crepe that would be perfect for the pattern. Maybe that should be my next project.

The muslin for the 7673 came up too tight across the shoulders, so I should see what happens when I do a broad shoulder adjustment to the pattern, but I’ve (once again) run out of cheap test fabric. I suppose I could take apart the finished muslin; slash and spread the fabric pieces as though they were the pattern pieces (slapping fabric over the gaps); re-stitch the muslin and see if that does it. I’m sure it would not be perfect, but it might be good enough.

I’m so tempted to cheat and just add to the seam allowance around the center back zipper, but I know that won’t work. It would just be so much easier than struggling to figure out why there is so much strain across the shoulders in the back, when the front lies pretty well.

Ralph Rucci for Vogue, #1404

Ralph Rucci for Vogue, #1404

I actually have Friday all to myself this week (for the first time in what seems like forever), so I may trace the Colette and the 1317 and go from there. Maybe I could trace the 1404 while I’m at it. It calls for a linen, shantung or suede (linen and suede don’t sound very interchangeable to me, but I guess the pattern works either way, but just looks different) and I have both a linen and a shantung in the stash.

I’m not sure why the 1404 is more advanced than the 1317. Perhaps it’s the quilted detailing at the hem? I’ve read through the booklets for both and the basic construction seems simpler with the 1404, but I can’t find anyone on the internet who has sewn it. Also, I can’t really attempt either Ralph Rucci until I get an invisible zipper foot.

Maybe I should just work out the problems with the vintage dress before I start something new!



This entry was posted on November 11, 2014 by in Sewing, Taking the day off and tagged , , , , , , , , .



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