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What I wear, when I wear it, and how it works on my bike

Sunday, Over My Head

S7122instructionsWell, the Simplicity 7122 may not have been the best choice for my next project, no matter how cute it is. The combination of kimono sleeve and princess seam (with bust dart!) is killing me. There are a number of reasonably clear kimono sleeve gusset tutorials on the web, but this dress does not have a gusset (just a bit of bias fabric to reinforce the stitches). More importantly, the tutorials I’ve found are not for a princess seamed bodice.

Fortunately, I started by cutting the pattern out of an old bedsheet, rather than the plum colored linen I had hoped to use for the pattern. My experience so far with vintage patterns in this size is that they fit really well with only a raising of the waist/shortening the torso and the tissue-fitting for 7122 looked good, once I’d taken about an inch out of the bodice length.
Really? Am I so terribly high/short waisted? This is very surprising to me.

But still, I started with practice fabric because I was not sure about the seam and sleeve. Lucky for me.

Wad of fabric which does not really show where things went wrong.

Wad of fabric which does not really show where things went wrong.

I am pretty sure I failed to get the bias square properly attached, to begin with, then I could not figure out how to stitch around the top of the princess panel into the armpit.

I ended up with an excess wad of fabric at the point of the side panel and an uncertainty about how the front would attach to the back.

Pinning the other side starting at the end of the sleeve, instead of at the bodice, did not make things any easier. Taking out the reinforcing bias square did not really help, either.

Puckering at the armpit (and peeking out bias square) from the outside.

Puckering at the armpit (and peeking out bias square) from the outside.

So, I pulled out all the stitches and poked around more on the internet, to no avail. I did a lot of pinning the pieces together and turning them inside out. I tried different starting points but nothing worked. I’ve set it aside for now.

Next weekend, I’ll start something else and I’ll worry away at this project in fits and starts until I can resolve this seam. I am really hoping to having something else finished and wearable by the end of July, but I don’t think it will be Simplicity 7122. Alas.

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3 comments on “Sunday, Over My Head

  1. Vintage on Tap
    June 29, 2014

    Ah! The puckering! I actually wrote a tutorial on this sort of technique on my blog if you’d like to check it out (and if I’m seeing it correctly from your pictures). If it’s a weird corner seam like it looks like, it’s definitely tricky. I had to make several samples myself in order to get it properly.

    But don’t give up!

    • Elizabeth Monkus
      June 30, 2014

      That’s really helpful. The tutorials I’ve found on vintage patterns with kimono sleeves all involve inserting a triangular gusset, which this dress does not have, so while they are useful for the bias-square part, they are not as helpful for the piecing.

      This has been very vexing, just trying to get the edges to line up! Much less stitch them down smoothly.

      • Vintage on Tap
        June 30, 2014

        I can absolutely understand the frustration in trying to get that corner to lay down properly! Samples can be your best friend, though. Cutting out a little bit of fabric in the same shape and just working it over and over until you get it sewn right. The extra time is worth it when you go back to your nice fabric!

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This entry was posted on June 29, 2014 by in Sewing and tagged , , , .

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