Catalogue of Sorts

What I wear, when I wear it, and how it works on my bike

Friday, Being Silly

I got a handmedown fur jacket over Christmas and went out for a ride in the snow today to get pictures. Otherwise, I’m not doing anything today.

Fur jacket, Linus and snow.

Fur jacket, Linus and snow.


Edited: Actually, I ended up finishing the Cloister dress when I realized I was being completely unproductive today and that it would take almost no time at all to finish it. It needed only hemming and the button the back collar.

Folkwear Cloister dress (reproduction of a Claire McCardell design) in unknown purple stretch fabric.

Folkwear Cloister dress (reproduction of a Claire McCardell design) in unknown purple stretch fabric.

I made two adjustments after the bodice muslin: a square shoulder adjustment and a long waist adjustment. I also added an on-seam pocket to the skirt and lengthened the sleeves from 3/4 to full. While the shoulder adjustment worked well, I’m not certain the long waist adjustment was necessary. Compared with the wedding ensemble in the Met collection, the skirt on my dress is definitely sitting much lower. I went back and forth with this several times–the waist marking on the pattern did not seem to help either. Without the adjustment, the waist line hit several inches below my waist, but the garbadine version I made is about as long on me as the version in the Met, but I felt I did not have enough range of motion in the dolman sleeve, which is  cut in a single piece with the bodice. The waist adjustment fixed that, but I think it’s better in the first version.

Also, I think the skirt is not flattering for me. Still, I would like to make the dress again, without the gathering at the waist and probably a shorter skirt. With less voluminous skirts, it won’t need as much fabric (bonus! since this took nearly six yards)  and might look more contemporary. The white lining is much more obvious under the flash than it is under normal lighting. The fabric is a loose weave, which makes it shear and the cut of the bodice leaves little room for a camisole. However, I was approaching this as a potentially wearable muslin, so I’m not terribly annoyed by the dumb choice of lining.

The piping at the collar worked out very well and I was pleased because I was not sure of the instructions. I wish Folkwear had more illustrations with their instructions. I lost some definition in the v-neck, but it’s a very shallow v to begin with. The directions for the neck button meant basically nothing to me, as they just say “make a crochet thread loop for the button”.

Folkwear Cloister dress, button detail.

Folkwear Cloister dress, button detail.

Burda, as it turns out, has clear tutorial. However, I used embroidery floss, instead of thread, and had to keep shortening it. I figured it was better to start out with too much loop than with too little.

You can see in the button detail picture than the lining is less obvious than is seems in the full-length shot.  Also, the air in my house is so dry from the heating that everything is sticking to everything else. I think I just saw a cat walk by with a sock stuck to his hindquarters.



This entry was posted on January 3, 2014 by in Sewing, Taking the day off and tagged , , , , , .



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